The Cultural Photographer at 12,000 feet
At a dizzying 12,500 ft. asl and the highest navigable lake in the world, Lake Titicaca is a strange and fascinating place. Two native cultures merge here and their ancient pre-columbian languages are still spoken by the majority of the residents of the lakeside city of Puno. Half use Aymara, half use Quechua but many of them are trilingual speaking both along with Spanish which is the official language of Perú.
The lake is the dominating feature of the landscape here. From a high point above the city you can see snowcapped mountains winking in the distance. But always there is the lake. It is massive. It is the largest lake in Perú and the largest lake in Bolivia. There are enormous vessels on the lake, cargo ships that ferry goods and contraband between the two countries.
One of my favorite places in Perú is Puno. Puno, a large port on the lake surprised me with its size and cosmopolitanism. It is a small city with one tall building, a literal skyscraper, a large university, a modern soccer stadium, and a handful of great restaurants all mixing, shaking, and pouring pisco sours, the national elixir.
In Puno I was often fatigued by long walks and the altitude, so I would sit on a park bench, rest and gaze at this baroque beauty. Built in the middle of the 18th century, the Basílica San Carlos Borromeo or Puno Cathedral, is an irresistible work of art for a cultural photographer. The enormous plaza served as a hub of activity: tourists, crafts men and women, indigenous skateboarders, guides, cab drivers, religious processions-all were part of the daily activity.
A kilometer or so out on the lake are 100 floating islands inhabited by people who enjoy their lifestyle, singular in all the world. Families live together and trade with another families, sell handcrafts to tourists, farm trout, and raise small livestock all while floating on their own private island the size of a suburban cul-de-sac. Since life is entirely lived on the lake, small children have achieved amazing skills in maritime knots, boat handling, and smiling.
The photograph below shows one of the intriguing reed boats used to escort and entertain tourists by taking them through the more than 100 floating islands. Note the presence of a second promenade deck. Some of the boats are propelled by a hefty and strong lady with a paddle, some by a less powerful 8 hp outboard. Local inhabitants playfully refer to these craft as ‘Mercedes Benz.”
Lake Titicaca is one of those places to go if you think you’ve seen everything.